|
Post by oksoonersfn1 on Sept 13, 2011 20:39:05 GMT -5
i am trying to find the celebrity tips and tricks section that used to be on here getting ready to start building one for next year
|
|
|
Post by C4 on Sept 13, 2011 20:57:34 GMT -5
You just found it.
|
|
|
Post by runinoutofgas on Sept 13, 2011 21:20:13 GMT -5
Most importantly replace front subframe mounts.
|
|
|
Post by C4 on Sept 13, 2011 22:15:35 GMT -5
This one is in the thread locator now.
Fill it up!
|
|
88x
Feature Winner
Posts: 1,125
|
Post by 88x on Sept 13, 2011 22:22:35 GMT -5
fix motor mounts! front one breaks pretty easy and after thats gone motor flops back and forth.
and of course like any other fwd. doughnuts on the rear and tuck trunk. pull hood forward and bend in front of rad.
|
|
|
Post by celebertyman12 on Sept 14, 2011 10:06:52 GMT -5
Run a transmission cooler, and keep the lines from getting pinched. No need to worry about the tranny getting hot but when the front starts to bend and the radiator gets twisted the stock tranny lines get kinked or broke and thatll ruin your day. I mount my cooler on the driverside where the stock battery was mounted, I bolt it to the strut tower.
I like to trim the bottom strut mount on the front where the spring sits and pound the rest onto the spring this gives a little more tire clearance.
Might be hard to understand but if you run stock bumper shocks go right behind where its bolted on the car drill through the subframe and the shock inside the frame stick a bolt in the hole and weld the head of the bolt to the frame. This will help prevent your bumper shocks from pulling out of the frame.
Electric fan- I take the two bottom bolts out so the fan isnt bolted solid allowing the fan to work if your front starts to get smashed. Wire up the fan so its running when the key is on.
If you pull the dash out do not cut any wires just tape where you have to and zip tie them up and out of the way. Pull unneccessary fuses out of the fuse box. Take all wires going to the back and relocate them wherever you want inside the car(this way the wires do not get pinched when the rear folds up which causes them to short out maybe ending your night)
Rear I always prebend mine I have access to a loader and heavy tractors and always prebend. I wouldnt run one without prebending JMO.
Brakes I only run front brakes. When the rear folds up lines can break causing you to have no brakes. One could just smash the lines flat going to the back, or I cut the brake line by the mastercylinder unscrew the line braze it shut then screw it back in the master cylinder.
Shorten and plug vacuum lines, seems to be a lot of unneccessary lines sprawled out in the engine bay. Cut one of those in a derby and your car runs like crap.
These are things ive come across and have fixed if someone has a better way to fix these problems or wants to correct me please do so id love to hear easier solutions.
|
|
hatebreed
Heat Winner
New York State Rep
Posts: 543
|
Post by hatebreed on Dec 18, 2011 16:21:25 GMT -5
Just picked this Buick up for my nephew to run in the youth show. Will be his first car. has a 6cyl in it.
|
|
|
Post by STROMI 121 on Dec 18, 2011 17:02:29 GMT -5
I prefer to hardnose a decent bumper on the front and eliminate the shocks or shove them in the frame then hardnose. Fix the tierods and try to avoid getting hit in the front wheels, the struts are weak.
|
|
|
Post by derbyinact on Dec 18, 2011 21:19:02 GMT -5
loop trans. no fan, loop radiator hoses with a t- fitting. vic bumper with full size shock with 1 inch rod threw it threw sub shock and frame. Ac condencer from lumina bolted in. loose the air box just the tube tied up. nothing in the front = good night and lots of room. It works lots of $$$ won this way. hope this helps.
|
|
|
Post by C4 on Jan 3, 2012 19:31:06 GMT -5
Gonna copy paste a few tips from the old wecrash while it is up. I know there's a ton of cars out there like this, most with either the 2.5L or the 2.8L My tips: 1. if possible take one with the 2.5L, it's a better derby motor, and besides some tracks won't allow v6's 2. tuck the trunk and prebend...very important on these cars 3. you need about 15psi of fuel pressure...stock tank works fine if it's allowed 4. run hood pins that run through both the subframe and the engine cradle that is right beneath it. 5. run hood pins right above the front wheels 6. to raise the car you can extend out the strut and weld on it.. leave yourself about 1/2" of travel 7. 15" wheels off newer cavaliers/achievas are the same bolt pattern 8. swap the front bumper....70s nova bumpers work good 9. weld a piece of angle iron on the bottom of the core support right behind your front bumper. (if the bottom of the core support bends it takes out your starter) 10. fill the doors, fenders, and subframe with expanding foam, makes a bigger difference then you think 11. drive fast...use the front wheel drive traction to your advantage, in mud one of these cars is much quicker than rear wheel drives 12. avoid hits to your front wheels from the side....this breaks cv shafts....let them hit anywhere else on the car just not here I'm sure i forgot something or someone else has more tips...fell free to add or make corrections 15" chrysler rims fit perfect, dont put a very tall and wide tire on, will cut down on turning radis Cut a slice out of the spare tire hump in the trunk floor from left to right with either a torch or a grinder,and Jack up the two halves of the spare tire hump metal,getting them to come up as far as you can.It helps to keep the rear from dropping and helps it pack in. Also on ANY X-car Like a Citation,Celebrity,Skylark,Omega,Pontiac 6000,Cutlass Ciera,Buick Century,etc,TAKE OFF the rear bumper,and crease or notch the rear. It will pack in good. Also on the front fenders,take out the plastic innars and run bolts through the front of the fenders through the support piece behind where the headlights are. This at least help keeps the fender and that piece of metal together,instead of the fender just flapping in the wind after a couple hits.
|
|
|
Post by C4 on Jan 3, 2012 19:34:27 GMT -5
I'll only be copying the posts that are relevant What we like 2 do with these is remove the trunk lid helps it pack in and deffently try to tweek the reat so it dosen't go down. I really like the V6 2.8 just alot of power and they don't die. I'm not impressed with the 2.5 yet only had one car with that do well all others ran great up until it got on the track. The celeberty front bumpers are the toughest out of the bumpers but drill the bumper shock and conpress it. TOM loose the wishbone put and iron plate with 2 holes for bolts on it and that will hold it and if it has as newer 2.5 with throttle body move the computer more towards the middle and wrap paddign around it then mount it we have had 2 or these fail because of computers frin loose the wishbone put and iron plate with 2 holes for bolts on it and that will hold it and if it has as newer 2.5 with throttle body move the computer more towards the middle and wrap paddign around it then mount it we have had 2 or these fail because of computers frin
|
|
|
Post by C4 on Jan 3, 2012 19:39:50 GMT -5
if you got access to a skidloader or frontend loader, set the bucket flat on the trunk, and wrap a chain arount the back bumper shocks up and arount the back of the bucket. then tip the bucket down so it pulls the assend up. we do this to all of our compacts, never had one go down yet, except my cavilier stationwagon I dont want to sound like a broken record but I always crush back my wagons and run threaded rod through it and also remove the rear bumper completely, I have NEVER had a wagon go down. Seriously Just start pounding and jumping on the roof just behind the doors (If you jack up the rear end first it will start to prebend as you get the roof closer to the floor) Make sure the roof touches the floor. Next, Buy some 3/4" or 1" threaded rod and thead it into Framerails ( use at least 4 " metal plates for washers) . Make sure to Cut a Hole to see out of. This rear end is the best for cleaning peoples grills hey for the linkage in the tranny that only has forward gears? change the neutral safety switch(gear position module on top of the tranny, where the bracket for your cablr to snap on to. it happen to me on my 2.5 celebirty. ran celebirtys for four years now in the figure eight races with a lot of hard hits, and never screwed up a tranny or blown a motor in one yet still have the cars with them in it.
|
|
|
Post by C4 on Jan 3, 2012 19:45:46 GMT -5
both me and my brother ran celebrities this past saturday and his dogbone broke on him and took him out so next year we are chaining the motors down. i welded my dogbone, dont know if it helped or not but i was using the front end alot after my backend went down. i think everyone running a celebrity, that didnt bend the backends up, went down. my dad said didnt need to and just lets see what happens and that is what took me out. i had both front flats and the backend was dragging dirt and it took me out, but still got 3rd end result was the rusty frame bowing down under the drivers seat making this car crusher ready. Saved the bumper and electronics from the motor. Now looking for another one just like it. Kirk
|
|
|
Post by C4 on Jan 3, 2012 19:48:54 GMT -5
If you're referring to the "dog bone" mount, I reinforced mine. I work at a manufacturing shop and some of the gearboxes we put together had this steel plate on them. I dug a few out of the scrap bin and the bolts lined up nicely. 1/4 " plate held up nocely. It had no play in it and I didn't have any problems with it. I have an 84 Cavy wagon on my trailer right now. Almost done with the motor and interior. Will take the glass out a bit closer to the derby. Later Kirk sliding the hood forward works great on these cars
|
|
|
Post by derbydude on Jun 13, 2012 21:39:32 GMT -5
how do you set up a a shifter on these cars, column cable shifter is starting to bind up on an 85 celebrity
|
|