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Post by stunt2 on Aug 12, 2019 12:45:33 GMT -5
I've built 4 tauruses (89-94) and i have yet to find something with a harder nose than them. I've used most of the tips on here on my own but I've found a few more real good ones through my experiences with them. 1. Take out the stock subframe mounts and use like 3/4inch bolts and bolt the body straight to the frame, take the front bolts and run them up through the unibody and have the tops of the bolts inside the engine compartment. 2. the 3.0 is a beast of an engine, unless you can beef up the core support don't waste your time with a radiator after the first run, just loop the cooling system and put in some mendtite and make sure you have some sort of an overflow so you don't blow everything to shit in the cooling system. 3. the tie rods and front struts are extremely weak, beef them up, or make homemade ones if you can it'll save a ton of headaches in the future. 4. yes the trunks are weak, tuck the lid then pound it down in the middle along with the back dash so the center of the trunk is lower than the sides, also pound the back window/roof braces down so that the roof doesn't hold the trunk down. 5. collapse the front bumper shocks or figure out how to get rid of them otherwise they will make the unibody blow out faster I have had a 93 sedan last me 7 runs until i junked it because i was tired of fixing it, and i currently have a 94 wagon with 5 runs on it and its rock solid and ready to go for another 10 once i get a different tranny. If you got any other more specific questions i know these cars in and out for the most part and i have had the worst case scenerio happen with a few so hit me up for advice
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Post by stunt2 on Aug 12, 2019 12:47:18 GMT -5
I've built 4 tauruses (89-94) and i have yet to find something with a harder nose than them. I've used most of the tips on here on my own but I've found a few more real good ones through my experiences with them. 1. Take out the stock subframe mounts and use like 3/4inch bolts and bolt the body straight to the frame, take the front bolts and run them up through the unibody and have the tops of the bolts inside the engine compartment. 2. the 3.0 is a beast of an engine, unless you can beef up the core support don't waste your time with a radiator after the first run, just loop the cooling system and put in some mendtite and make sure you have some sort of an overflow so you don't blow everything to shit in the cooling system. 3. the tie rods and front struts are extremely weak, beef them up, or make homemade ones if you can it'll save a ton of headaches in the future. 4. yes the trunks are weak, tuck the lid then pound it down in the middle along with the back dash so the center of the trunk is lower than the sides, also pound the back window/roof braces down so that the roof doesn't hold the trunk down. 5. collapse the front bumper shocks or figure out how to get rid of them otherwise they will make the unibody blow out faster I have had a 93 sedan last me 7 runs until i junked it because i was tired of fixing it, and i currently have a 94 wagon with 5 runs on it and its rock solid and ready to go for another 10 once i get a different tranny. If you got any other more specific questions i know these cars in and out for the most part and i have had the worst case scenerio happen with a few so hit me up for advice Do you have any picks of where most of the front end bends? I am allowed 4 4x4 fix it plates and would like to know best place for them
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Post by derbyiii on Aug 13, 2019 20:15:28 GMT -5
I’m running a 2003 I’m curious on what rims to run I already bought some 23 8.5 14 now I’m looking for rims worried about clearance for the brakes any suggestions?
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chi
Heat Winner
Posts: 229
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Post by chi on Aug 13, 2019 22:11:38 GMT -5
I’m running a 2003 I’m curious on what rims to run I already bought some 23 8.5 14 now I’m looking for rims worried about clearance for the brakes any suggestions? Those mid-80s 5 spoke Volvo wheels should clear,they're kind of a wide offset
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Post by jayjay1985 on Aug 14, 2019 3:43:08 GMT -5
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Post by marker on Aug 19, 2019 12:09:04 GMT -5
The fun part of running these newer Fords...all the crap that breaks on them. Thanks for posting your photos.
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Post by ghall79 on Aug 24, 2019 12:51:36 GMT -5
Have a 95 Taurus with the 3.0 and I’m not getting spark. Have my fuel pump hooked up with the feed going to the line on the back of the motor where the valve is. Also no CEL light on dash with key in the run position. Tried the Hotwire method posted a few pages back and didn’t help. No problems when the stock battery was hooked up. Wondering if I forgot a ground? I can hear the ccrm click when I turn the key on. Cranks over strong just won’t start. Pulled a plug wire and checked for spark and got nothing. Any ideas?
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Post by littleguy57 on Aug 24, 2019 22:20:57 GMT -5
Have a 95 Taurus with the 3.0 and I’m not getting spark. Have my fuel pump hooked up with the feed going to the line on the back of the motor where the valve is. Also no CEL light on dash with key in the run position. Tried the Hotwire method posted a few pages back and didn’t help. No problems when the stock battery was hooked up. Wondering if I forgot a ground? I can hear the ccrm click when I turn the key on. Cranks over strong just won’t start. Pulled a plug wire and checked for spark and got nothing. Any ideas? .... are all ur grounds hooked up ... main computer ground body to motor ground???
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Post by ghall79 on Aug 25, 2019 10:13:10 GMT -5
Computer is mounted up on the cowl, just have one ground from motor to battery. Gonna add another from engine to body and see what happens.
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Post by ghall79 on Aug 25, 2019 11:52:46 GMT -5
Added a few grounds and still nothing. Checked the ccrm with a test light with key on engine off and only have power coming to pin 13 on the harness side. No other pins have power to them. So I know for a fact the pcm isn’t gettin juice. Any thoughts?
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Post by ghall79 on Aug 26, 2019 6:14:34 GMT -5
Main problem is no power to pcm with key on. Tested the connector on the ccrm with the key on and pin 13 is the only one I’m getting battery voltage at. Pin 8 only reads about 1.6v. Tried a new ignition switch and checked all the fuses again.
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Post by littleguy57 on Aug 28, 2019 23:18:00 GMT -5
Anyone ever tear into one of these tranny... just wondering if they are a pain
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Post by ghall79 on Sept 3, 2019 16:24:57 GMT -5
Anyone ever delete the power steering pump and ac pump and just run the water pump and alternator? Took a hit to the front and shattered the power steering bracket and caused the belt to wobble off. Rather not go through the work of fixing it just to have t happen again.
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Post by cward11 on Sept 8, 2019 15:31:53 GMT -5
So I've had pretty good luck with these cars and the aluminum spindles been holding up good surprisingly. But the struts on front are so weak. Does anyone know of a stronger one to replace the stock ones. I can't modify the original ones in any way rules state.
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Post by hitman99x on Sept 11, 2019 13:38:52 GMT -5
Anyone ever delete the power steering pump and ac pump and just run the water pump and alternator? Took a hit to the front and shattered the power steering bracket and caused the belt to wobble off. Rather not go through the work of fixing it just to have t happen again. I believe DemolitionMissions had done this with his wagon? I might be wrong...
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