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Post by fig714 on Aug 8, 2011 10:42:31 GMT -5
TEMPO AND TOPAZ TIPS GO HERE
This will now serve as the sticky thread for these.....C4
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temke#13D
Heat Winner
doing it up for my boyz
Posts: 485
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Post by temke#13D on Aug 8, 2011 10:50:45 GMT -5
The main thing to take care of is fuel safety switch if not hard wiring fuel pump and move trans cooler from front to inside car and of coarse do the normal welding good bumper etc
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T-Brell
Feature Winner
Posts: 2,295
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Post by T-Brell on Aug 8, 2011 11:26:03 GMT -5
by TVP rules you can make suspension "as stiff as desired". To keep rear wheels from laying sideways, I replaced the rear struts with 2 inch water pipe and welded 1/4" plate with holes in them to mount them to the spindles. Also welded angle on the control arms(the 4 that run across, not the 2 that run along the car). After this, no more laid over rear wheels!
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Post by ld50 on Aug 8, 2011 21:12:51 GMT -5
In order of importance, Weld motor mounts solid, Weld angle iron onto your tie rods so that they do not bend or break, Weld the diff on the automatic transmissions, Weld the adjustment bolt to the slot for the rear struts so that the hub doesn't lay over, run donuts on rear, tuck/notch trunk, crease the hell out of these cars it really helps, run a bumper of equivalent or greater strength than a steel box ford bumper. Other than the usual welding and universal build tips for compacts you should be good to go if your rules allow all this.
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kberg
Feature Winner
Posts: 3,743
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Post by kberg on Aug 8, 2011 22:00:44 GMT -5
Oh and have good tires....all i did with my first car (topaz) was change tires! Ugh.. Car got 6runs total on it tho they will run and run n run...mine still did but the body said no more. As well as my snapped strut
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Post by Bullet84 on Aug 9, 2011 12:24:28 GMT -5
A must is to relocate the fuel filter and the starer solenoid
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temke#13D
Heat Winner
doing it up for my boyz
Posts: 485
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Post by temke#13D on Aug 9, 2011 13:13:50 GMT -5
A must is to relocate the fuel filter and the starer solenoid or by pass the filter all together ....x2 on the solenoid it will be a sitting duck if hit right
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Post by derbydan on Aug 9, 2011 14:37:01 GMT -5
I just picked up an 85 Tempo for a really stock show. the only welding alloud is the cage and the doors. and that is it. and no stiff suspension either.
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Post by ld50 on Aug 9, 2011 15:28:42 GMT -5
I just picked up an 85 Tempo for a really stock show. the only welding alloud is the cage and the doors. and that is it. and no stiff suspension either. What I would do is if you are not allowed to weld the tie rods is to tape the hell out of them it might help it might not not for sure. But either weld or chain your motor mounts that will slow these cars way down. Otherwise make sure your fuel pump is hard wired on a toggle, and eliminate the ground on the core support. Donuts help a lot at limited weld shows or one and done shows. Hope this helps.
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Post by Bullet84 on Aug 9, 2011 16:56:29 GMT -5
A must is to relocate the fuel filter and the starer solenoid or by pass the filter all together ....x2 on the solenoid it will be a sitting duck if hit right we have always slid the hood down 8 inches and where the cowl for the wipers go we unbolt the fuel filter and lay the whole assembly in there back thing for that to come loose and hit the alternator
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Post by derbydan on Aug 9, 2011 19:32:03 GMT -5
I just picked up an 85 Tempo for a really stock show. the only welding alloud is the cage and the doors. and that is it. and no stiff suspension either. What I would do is if you are not allowed to weld the tie rods is to tape the hell out of them it might help it might not not for sure. But either weld or chain your motor mounts that will slow these cars way down. Otherwise make sure your fuel pump is hard wired on a toggle, and eliminate the ground on the core support. Donuts help a lot at limited weld shows or one and done shows. Hope this helps. We can weld the motor mounts. and I talked to the chief tech today, and he said he's not sure if he's gonna let the welded tie rod thing go. I asked him about welding a piece of angle around it to strengthen it .You said donuts help these alot. do you mean on the rear or up front and the rear. I was gonna put some 700 14's up front and donuts in the back. Something was mentioned about welding the adjusting bolt on the struts in the rear to keep the wheel from laying over. Explain please. and is there a way to hide it or is it pretty obvious. Never done a mini before so all the help I can get is appreciated.
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Post by ld50 on Aug 9, 2011 20:11:38 GMT -5
700-14's would be perfect for the front as for the donuts they are for the back so if the rear packs in or goes to the ground instead of going up it will keep the rear end out of the tires longer. Also it's easier on the struts because you don't have as much leverage with the smaller wheel. As for the strut adjustment bolt it is at the bottom of the strut and you loosen and it sliders in a slotted part of the bottom of the strut. If you put a small bead of weld on it it will keep the bolt from sliding. I've gotten away with just running donuts though they don't tend to rub as easily when you run donuts. I would also recommend removing the rear brakes and parking breaks....nothing slows you down like a hung up rear wheel.
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Post by djmxrider93 on Aug 16, 2011 20:50:42 GMT -5
on a 93 tempo, wut is the rim size? and does anyone have pics of replacing the bumper shocks with 2 in pipe? and one of my bolts for the valve covers broke, so it smokes when im driving it, should i worry bout this, or is it ok?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
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Post by Deleted on Aug 16, 2011 23:39:09 GMT -5
distributer protector
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3m
Future Icon
Posts: 21
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Post by 3m on Sept 19, 2011 5:33:34 GMT -5
do you have to cut the spare tire compartment in the trunk? I usually just slice the floor from frame rail to frame rail and notch the frame. Will this work on these cars?
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