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Post by rennyx on Jul 20, 2019 21:33:33 GMT -5
Yes, I see why. They should work out pretty good.
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Post by adamincolorado on Aug 6, 2019 11:32:21 GMT -5
Hey Guys. Pretty new to Derby recently. Drove in about 4-5 about 18 years ago with the help of my dad building them. The derbies around Southeast Colorado are pretty stock. There is one at the state fair coming up in a month or so. I have a stripped down 85 Crown Vic and have a late 80s Suburban. Can decide which car I should try to finish and run. Here is a link to the rules. tommygproductions.com/events/documents/2017-DERBY-RULES-AND-REGULATIONS-revised-07132017.pdfWith these rules would it be a waste to run the Crown Vic or should I wait until next summer and build it for a more modified/weld event?
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Post by smashford on Aug 6, 2019 12:19:20 GMT -5
Old iron will eat you up, they dont allow the metric cars any extra to help them compete
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Post by adamincolorado on Aug 6, 2019 14:53:15 GMT -5
That is what I thought at well for this event. I may have the inside on a late 60s Cadillac that I may try to get and run.
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Aug 6, 2019 22:27:32 GMT -5
Might be bc I do a few extra but I'd take it. Especially stock body mounts. You will run against rustier 70s models so their body bolts will break. I'm guessing it not a high dollar show since you did say so is why I say you will run against a rustier car if 70s. Will be plenty of 80s up there like most bone stock classes now days.
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Post by smashford on Aug 7, 2019 0:20:08 GMT -5
Southeast colorado will be old iron good old iron. I'd take the vic over an early cadi that cant have the bumpers swapped
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Post by settleit on Aug 7, 2019 12:02:34 GMT -5
Anyone have problems with the frames flattening out quick in the back on the 90s vics? Never seen a rail flatten so quick and it still gray. Makes me want to stick to 98-02.
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demoboy333
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Post by demoboy333 on Aug 7, 2019 21:07:59 GMT -5
Anyone have problems with the frames flattening out quick in the back on the 90s vics? Never seen a rail flatten so quick and it still gray. Makes me want to stick to 98-02. we got two flatten in rear right after it rolled up from a side shot trying to get to the rear tire by some guys.
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Post by adamincolorado on Aug 8, 2019 8:17:45 GMT -5
The caddy is a 69 Sedan De Ville. Does that matter at all? I read through that entire thread as well and it seemed like it was a decent year.
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Post by DerbyKing88s on Aug 8, 2019 15:10:19 GMT -5
They are decent, i’d Take a 80+ ford over a caddy in a stock class tho
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Post by waterboii on Aug 8, 2019 20:54:00 GMT -5
I'm building a 1990 Lincoln Town Car with a 360 motor and 727 tranny. As far as I can tell from reading this thread and from what friends and family have said there's a few things that should be done and I was looking to see if anyone can confirm these or add on to them for me so I'm not going in blind or completely ruining a good car.
I'm running the car with limited weld rules. We'll be tilting it and hardnosing it with a bumper off a 76 LTD. Possible leaf conversion if it's worth the extra effort. Friends have said to canoe the trunk lid and notch the frame 12 inches from the end. Anything else worth doing to these to beef them up? Hoping to get multiple runs off the car. If anyone has any experience with them and know any little tips and tricks, please let me know.
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Post by adamincolorado on Aug 9, 2019 16:52:54 GMT -5
They are decent, i’d Take a 80+ ford over a caddy in a stock class tho I can get them under $400 each. They are both running so I may grab them both. Feel like the end of the month is out of the question for me though. May spend the winter getting them ready. Run one for stock events and the other for a more welder friendly event. Probably Greeley Stampede/Adams County Fair as they are ran by the same promoter I believe.
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Post by DerbyKing88s on Aug 9, 2019 17:24:41 GMT -5
I’ll buy one of them
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Post by Derbyfan on Sept 1, 2019 13:52:25 GMT -5
So heres my question. Have a 86 crown vic. Frames doubled on the outside on the rails, humps have straight tubes through it, has 1/4 inch plates over lower control arm brackets around the normal kinking area on old vics, 1/4 inch plate on both sides on tranny support as well as 4 sides from a-frame forward to mount bumper. Also have it around top a-frame to "hold it down" I have all thread shocks also. And I have 2 plates below the kickers on side of frame. kickers are touching the a-frame at a 30° angle. The upper control arms are plated on the bottoms to strengthen them as well as the back lower side of frame is plated from humps back I was gunna add a kicker from the original kicker that runs straight down off it to the frame also. Thoughts on where this car will bend I'm new to the kickers class and cant really see it bending other then the center of the frame? Also frame is seam welded top and bottom.
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Post by backwoodsboys707 on Sept 1, 2019 19:39:16 GMT -5
I'm building a 1990 Lincoln Town Car with a 360 motor and 727 tranny. As far as I can tell from reading this thread and from what friends and family have said there's a few things that should be done and I was looking to see if anyone can confirm these or add on to them for me so I'm not going in blind or completely ruining a good car. I'm running the car with limited weld rules. We'll be tilting it and hardnosing it with a bumper off a 76 LTD. Possible leaf conversion if it's worth the extra effort. Friends have said to canoe the trunk lid and notch the frame 12 inches from the end. Anything else worth doing to these to beef them up? Hoping to get multiple runs off the car. If anyone has any experience with them and know any little tips and tricks, please let me know. Depending on your rules shorten the front a little and hard nose the bumper....I personally would leaf it...ran one coiled for the first time this year and it turned out alright but I think I'll stick to leafing them when allowed
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