Punisher 66J
Feature Winner
F**K WELD CLASS, STOCK IS FOR TRUE DERBY DRIVERS!!!
Posts: 3,789
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Post by Punisher 66J on Nov 22, 2012 16:26:28 GMT -5
Any one have pictures of both subs to show differences?
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Post by ram21r on Jan 31, 2013 23:34:04 GMT -5
The question i have is how are these people loading these subs. I have a firend from ohio that just got this sub and after examining it closely we found that the sub is loaded pretty good. There is quarter inch angle the whole way from the part where the shock goes through the frame to the back. How was this done?
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Post by mopar35x on Feb 1, 2013 6:23:58 GMT -5
By someone that can weld real good
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Post by ram21r on Feb 1, 2013 16:12:20 GMT -5
Haha ya but the welds were perfect idk if they cut the seems or what
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Post by supercheater on Feb 1, 2013 22:47:53 GMT -5
often wondered the same thing
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Post by ram21r on Feb 2, 2013 1:35:47 GMT -5
Ya if they cut this frame was cut open then he is te best weldesr ive ever seen
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Post by decker on Feb 2, 2013 16:35:11 GMT -5
how did the bottom seems look? They might have pulled the suspension and pealed the bottom seams open
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Post by ram21r on Feb 3, 2013 2:12:28 GMT -5
Bottom seems same as top. They look factory to me
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Post by kirbybuilt54 on Feb 7, 2013 21:36:25 GMT -5
I just picked up a pre ran sub. It has been bent between the fire wall mount and the first floor board mount. I was hopping someone could get me some basic baseline measurements so I can been it back to stock specs. I need to know the height of the bottom of the cross member and to the bottom of the bumper horn on flat ground. If I know the these measurements I can straighten this sub.
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Post by aoldfart on Feb 10, 2013 4:09:02 GMT -5
A buddy of mine just picked up a 70 2 door Imp. We haven't really looked at it yet, but we saw the the trunk floor pan was really rusted! Most of the pan on the drivers side is gone. Didn't have a chance to look at the frame yet. I know the front is the killer end, but want to help the trunk roll right. The guy he got it from, said to do a square notch in the frame, about half way from the taillights. I think it would be better to do two notches. One about 7 to 8 inches from the lights, and the other about the same, from the humps. We've never had a Mopar this rusted before, so would like to have some other opinions. Thanks, Steve
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Post by aoldfart on Feb 12, 2013 19:12:53 GMT -5
This is a picture of the trunk I was asking about, in the above post. We got all of the rust and junk out. This is what's left. Looks like the frames are OK. We're not allowed to add any metal to the trunk/rust area. Do you folks think it'll fold OK with just notching the frames in one spot? The fenders, lid and rain gutters are in real good shape. Thanks, Steve Attachments:
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Post by redneckracing12 on Feb 12, 2013 20:32:59 GMT -5
Haha ya but the welds were perfect idk if they cut the seems or what you cut the side of it so you can maintain the factory frame seams on the top and underside of the frame then blend your new welds together add some rust and all done.
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aron117
Future Icon
Haven't you heard? Bird is the word
Posts: 142
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Post by aron117 on Feb 23, 2013 14:11:47 GMT -5
Is there any difference in the subs of the 67-68cars and the 69-73 cars? I know the body style is different. But I didn't know if the subs were different too. Like are the body mounts in the same place?
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Post by ironman712 on Feb 27, 2013 1:51:01 GMT -5
This is a picture of the trunk I was asking about, in the above post. We got all of the rust and junk out. This is what's left. Looks like the frames are OK. We're not allowed to add any metal to the trunk/rust area. Do you folks think it'll fold OK with just notching the frames in one spot? The fenders, lid and rain gutters are in real good shape. Thanks, Steve I would say if you cant patch it find another show or pull the sub and throw in a different mopar alot of the floor in the trunk on these cars is the strength with where the rear spring mounts if your goinn run it anyways beat the quarters in and cut half the trunk lid off with it this rusty i would bet it will push straight in toward the back seat ...thats just my opinion ..i would pull the sub and front clip and i hate to say it but i would smash the rest ...or put a lot of time and effort into patching plus i would say the rear frame rails are rusty somewhere
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Post by aoldfart on Feb 27, 2013 4:57:38 GMT -5
Thanks for the info! We can't patch it. We can pre-bend the lid/fenders, so we'll do that. Other than stitch welding, that's about all we can do. The driver is just going to run it with a square notch in the frames, about half way up. He's going to use the nose anyway, so he hopes it'll fold/roll in if anybody hits him back there.
Steve
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