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 Knox Co Fair 7/28 Bicknell, IN
« Thread Started on Jun 15, 2012, 8:54pm »

2012 Knox County Fair (Bicknell, IN)
Demolition Derby

Saturday July 28th
Inspection ends at 7:00 p.m. at 8:00 p.m. EST


Fullsize
$1250
$800
$400

Bone Stock
$750
$400
$200

Trucks
$500
$250
$100

Powder Puff
$500
$250
$100




**Mad Dog Awards in all classes
**Must be minimum of 10 entries per class for 100% payout
**Minis and mowers welcome—must have 5 to create a class
Entry Fee $30—Passenger $25—Pit Pass $15
Grandstands= $8


Contact Information:
Cory Moreland--812-887-9623
Rules online at knoxcountyfaironline.org
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 Re: Knox Co Fair 7/28 Bicknell, IN
« Reply #1 on Jun 17, 2012, 7:33pm »

Rules and Regulations
The following rules and/or regulations set forth herein are designed to provide for the orderly
conduct of Demolition Derby and to establish minimum acceptable requirements for such events.
These rules shall govern the condition of all events, and by participating in these events, all
participants are deemed to have complied with these rules. No express or implied warranty of safety
shall result from publications of or compliance with these rules and/or regulations. They are intended
as a guide for the conduct of the sport and are in no way a guarantee against injury or death to
participant, spectator or official. The officials shall be empowered to permit minor deviation from any
of the specifications herein or impose any further restrictions that in their opinion do not alter the
safety factor. Any interpretation or deviation of these rules is left to the discretion of the Officials, and
their decision is final. The Officials reserve the right to approve and/or reject all entries. No alcohol
on the grounds. All coolers will be checked.

WE HAVE THE RIGHT TO REFUSE ANY ENTRY AND SPECTATOR ADMITTANCE.









1. All cars should be signed in one hour before race time and inspected ½ hour before race time.
Late fees will apply. Late fee for driver $50 and passenger $40.
2. Minimum age for driver or passenger is 16 and must provide proof of age at the request of
Official
3. All drivers must wear approved helmets, eye protection, long pants, and shirt.
4. No reinforcements allowed other than what is specified below.
5. All cars will be lifted by the track officials during inspection. You will be allowed 2 attempts to
pass inspection. Any attempt after the 2nd will result in an additional entry fee.
6. No hitting in drivers door or passenger door if a passenger is riding. Door cannot be used as a
shield. If the hit is deemed by the officials to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you
use your door as a defense, we will not enforce this rule. This will be at the official’s discretion.
7. A driver that receives a black flag for an intentional door hit will be disqualified from that heat.
8. A driver that receives a black flag for sandbagging or two fires will be disqualified. If this
happens in a heat race, the driver will be allowed to enter the consolation.
9. A driver that receives two black flags for sandbagging or door hits will be disqualified for the
rest of the event.
10. Drivers may enter more than one heat but must have different cars for each heat. Drivers with
two cars must actively compete in both races before being allowed to choose which car he will run in
the feature. Failure to actively complete will result in the officials deciding which car will be run.
11. The car qualifies for the feature. not the driver
12. All drivers MUST attend driver’s meeting prior to derby.
13. NO hot-rodding in the pits. Keep it at an idle.
14. Any open door or second fire will result in disqualification.
15. If you think someone is sandbagging, hit them. Make them drive. The drivers are the easiest
way to stop sandbagging.
16. If driver is found to be sandbagging, the derby will be red flagged and the car will be marked
with an x. After action resumes if anyone takes out the x’ed car he will be awarded an automatic bid in
the feature. Can’t be a group effort. If a car is x’ed in the feature and taken out, the driver that takes
him out, will be awarded $50 at the end of the feature. X’s do not carry over from heat races.
17. You will be given ample time for restarts. Hitters will get more time than sandbaggers.
18. Cars are subject to re-inspection before prize money is handed out. Cars found to be illegal
will forfeit prize money.
19. Any questions or controversies will be discussed at the drivers meeting.
20. Protest of cars- Anyone car being run can be protested by any driver driving that night. The
drivers protest must be made to the superintendent before the 1st heat begins. Everyone is human,
and if we missed something let us know. I know as well as you do that the drivers know who is legal
and who isn’t. So if we missed something, let us know. Otherwise keep your mouth shut and live with
what happens.
21. All persons MUST sign an entry form, insurance waiver, release form, pay entries, and
purchase pit passes before entering the pit area.
22. There is no alcohol allowed on the fair grounds. This includes the pit crews. If you or any of
your crew is caught with alcohol, you will be disqualified.
23. No harassing of the judges will be allowed at any time by drivers, passengers, crew members
or spectators. Failure to abide by this rule will result in the disqualification of the driver and all
monies paid and/or won.
24. All cars must be removed from derby site by 12:00 noon the following day unless otherwise
stated at driver’s meeting. Failure to do this will result in cars being removed by and becoming
property of local salvage operator.
25. In the feature, when there are 2 cars left, a 5 minute clock will be started. If after 5 minutes a
winner is not crowned, the remaining 2 cars will go head on to decide the winner. This rule will only
be enforced when deemed necessary by the officials. If the last 2 drivers are doing the best they can,
with what they have left, the rule will not be enforced. But, if the last 2 cars are not willing to put on a
show and tear up their cars, a red flag will be thrown and they will split the 1st place money. Everyone
else will be moved up one spot. The fans paid for a show and you will give them one!
26. This is not a team event. I know all the team driving cannot be stopped, but it can be made to
look less obvious. Don’t make me have to make the call. You won’t like the outcome.
27. No holding or pinning of cars.


AUTOMOBILE BODY REGULATIONS- ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

1. Passenger cars or station wagons only. No trucks, jeeps, hearses, limousines, or checkered
cabs. No Chrysler Imperials and no Imperial Sub Frames.
2. Station wagons converted to a sedagons are allowed. If roof sheet metal is bolted to the floor
pan, officials can cut a hole to inspect for reinforcements under the sheet metal.
3. All glass, side windows, rear windows, headlights and taillights, must be removed before
reaching the track. Rolling down windows is not permitted.
4. Rear seat of sedan must be removed, top and bottom. On station wagons all seats and decking
must be removed. Station wagons must be emptied to the floorboards.
5. Cars must have a seatbelt and working brakes. MANDATORY
6. Battery may be moved, but must be securely fastened and covered in passenger compartment.
Two batteries are allowed.
7. MANDATORY –Front windshield must have a bar or loop of #9 wire from roof to the firewall for
safety. 1 bar or 2 loops of #9 wire only.
8. Trailer hitches: Class A or frame mounted must be totally removed. Class B or bumper mounted
trailer ball stub must be cut off.


GAS TANKS AND FUEL PUMPS – ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

1. Stock gas tank MUST be removed from original position and mounted in the rear seat area and
secured. A marine tank or fuel cell is strongly recommended. All lines and fitting must be leak proof
and meet approval of the track officials. Electric fuel pumps are allowed, but must have a shut-off
switch within reach of the driver. Tanks must be covered before entering the track.
2. All lines must be run inside car, not along the frame underneath. All lines should be double
clamped.

RADIATOR AND CORE SUPPORT – ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

1. Radiator must be in stock position. Any automotive type radiator can be used. Must be an OEM
automotive radiator.
2. No reserve tanks and no added cooling capacity.
3. Core support seams can be welded. These are the only body seams that are allowed to be
welded. No exceptions.
4. One electric fan, mounted to the radiator, may be used.
5. Radiator protectors are allowed, but must be in front off or behind radiator.
6. Protectors are to be full floating or bolted to the radiator.
7. Protectors cannot be wider than the cooling surface of the radiator.
8. Protector cannot be thicker than 1/8” and must be made out of a form of expanded metal or
screen. No solid metal allowed at all. No angle iron or flat strap.
9. This is a radiator protector, not a core support reinforcement.

BODY – ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

1. No body seams may be welded except for the ones outlined on the core support. No metal may
be added. Inner fenders may be welded to frame. Body cannot be welded to frame anywhere else.
2. No doubling of body panels allowed, no added metal allowed. No reinforcing of the firewall.
Body sheet metal patching must be Okayed by official. Call first.
3. No adding of metal between inner and outer fender skins. This means no welded in gussets,
angle iron or shackle rod.
4. Body creasing, enhancing of existing body lines and addition of body lines is allowed. Do not
fold the metal over to create a doubled effect. If this is found. It will be torch cut. If there is any place
where metal is formed into layers. It will be torch cut. No man made seams can be welded.
5. Body mounts may be replaced with up to and no larger than 1 inch bolts or all thread with
washers or plates no bigger than 4 inches in diameter and no thicker than 1/4 inch. These plate
washers cannot be welded down. No overlapping of washers or plates.
6. Body spacers at the core support cannot be larger than 2” round or 3” x 3” square tubing.
Cannot be welded in.
7. Only two added body mounts allowed.
8. Fenders may be bolted together with a maximum of 10 - 3/8 inch bolts or smaller with 3/8 inch or
smaller washers.
9. Doors may be welded, chained or wired. If doors are welded, they cannot be welded any farther
than 3” on each side of the door seam.
10. No body mount bolts or all thread allowed through the humps.
11. 2 rear window bars are allowed. Cannot be attached to cage anywhere. Must go from roof
sheet metal to rear speaker deck. Cannot go past trunk lip. Must be attached sheet metal to sheet
metal. Must be attached at least 8” off and inside the pillars.
12. Rear window bars must be made out of a max. of or up to 3”x 3” material. No solid stock.
13. Rear window bars must be welded or bolted to sheet metal only and cannot be any longer than
12” on the roof and no more than 4” on trunk lid or trunk sheet metal.

SUSPENSION – ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

1. Suspension must be original factory suspension for that car.
2. A arm can be welded solid. A arm can be bolted or welded down. You may weld square stock or
pipe between the upper and lower A arms to set suspension height. 1” pipe or 1”x1” square. Not solid
square or round stock.
3. A arm cannot be plated or reinforced. Stock A arms only
4. Tie rods may be reinforced
5. Steering gear boxes may be modified. After market steering columns are allowed.
6. Sway bars must be in factory stock position or taken out completely. Cannot be flipped and
welded to the frame.

HOODS AND TRUNKS – ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

1. Hoods must have two (2) holes, at least four (4) inches in diameter on each side of the
carburetor. Not directly on top of the carburetor. If the hood is removed, either the fan or fan belt
must be removed.
2. Hood cut outs cannot be welded. Bolted only. Hood seams cannot be welded.
3. Max. of 50 bolts allowed in hood and trunk total between the two. No added metal. 3/8” bolts
max. with factory 3/8” washers.
4. Hoods, trunks, and tailgates must be open upon request during inspection. If we cannot see we
will cut.
5. Hoods may be secured by all thread outboard the radiator, 2 pieces at firewall, and 1 at each
fender well. 1” x 1”x 4” long angle iron may be used in place of the all thread. 3 on each side of the
car hood total. If welding all thread to the firewall, all thread cannot be longer than 12”, and no more
than 8” can be welded to the firewall. Washers cannot exceed 4 inches in diameter.
6. The all thread outboard the radiator can be sleeved with up to 2 inch tubing or round pipe.
These 2 pieces of all thread are the only ones that can be sleeved.
7. If you use #9 wire to hold down hood, you are allowed Unlimited #9 wire across the front in front
of radiator.
8. Don’t wire hood down until after inspection.
9. You may use all thread to secure the trunk lid. All thread must go thru factory body mounts. (4
total) Cannot be sleeved. Washers may be no larger than 4 inches in diameter and cannot be welded
down. Unlimited #9 wire can be used here as well.
10. Trunks & tailgates can be welded solid.max 4 inch strap If so, a 12”x12” hole must be cut in the
center of the lid. If there are any questions, officials can cut the trunk to see inside.
11. The trunk lid must remain on hinges and be in stock position. No moving forward or backwards
of trunk lid
12. The trunk lid may be v’d in the center, but must remain at least 10” off the trunk floor.
13. No adding of metal in trunk lip area to fill the gap.
14. Relocation the rear speaker deck is not allowed. It must remain in stock position. It can be cut
out. If cut out, it cannot be placed anywhere else in the car.

SAFTEY CAGES – ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

1. You should have a six point cage. The cage can be welded to the frame in four (4) places. Must
go to flat part of frame. You can have up to six (6) down posts, three (3) per side (4 to frame, 2 to
sheet metal). You should have a dash bar, a cross bar behind the seat and two (2) door cross bars.
The door bars cannot be less than 12 inches off of the floor. Cage cannot extend past the rear doors.
Nothing can be ran between the rear wheel humps or welded to the humps. No kickers to the frame
humps- front or back. All down post must be straight. (NO ANGLES)
2. Door bars must stop at dash bar. Nothing in front of dash bar.
3. Dash bar cannot be more than 6 inches in front of front door seam. Dash bar cannot be in front
of front door post.
4. Cage can be made out of 3” pipe or 3” square tubing, MAX.
5. All down tubes must be behind the dash bar, straight up and down and on the flat part of the
top of the frame. Cannot go to the body mount boxes.
6. Gas tank protectors are allowed . Can touch the rear deck metal. Or package tray but can not be
bolted or welded floating only

HALO BARS OR ROLLOVER BARS – ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

1. You may add a halo bar to the cage components listed above. It may not exceed 5” in diameter.
2. On a 4 door post car, this bar must attach to the seat bar. NO EXCEPTIONS
3. On a 2 door or 4 door non-post car, this bar may be attached to the floor sheet metal.
4. Halo bars must be in a direct vertical line with the seat.
5. Halo bars may not be angled toward the rear of the car.
6. You may bolt the halo bar to the roof sheet metal in 2 places.
7. The halo bar cannot be attached to the front window bar or rear window bar.


PITCHING, TILTING OR TIPPING FORDS

THIS SECTION IS FOR 80”S AND NEWER ONLY
1. You can cut the flaps on the front side of the frame to pitch the frame. No metal or gussets can
be added.
2. Nothing is to be welded on the side of the spring bucket behind the ball joint.
3. You may have a 5” long piece of angle iron welded to the frame to set the cross member on if
you like.
4. When re-welding the flaps you cut to pitch the car back to the frame, only weld the amount that
you cut to get it loose
5. You may “cold” pitch the fords as well.
6. 2003 and newer may pitch their cars under your feet at the transmission cross member under
the car. Weld only. No added metal
7. When changing bodies, you must keep 80’s and newer with 80’s and newer. No old iron bodies
on 80’s and newer or vice versa.

FRAMES – ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

ABSOLUTELY NO CONCRETE IN FRAMES
1. No welding, plating, or reinforcing of the frame unless specified otherwise.

2. Factory top frame seams may be welded from firewall forward only. A single bead or one pass
weld is allowed. Anything considered excessive by the officials will be dealt with at the time of
inspection.
3. Crush box seams can be welded. Again if they are welded in excess you will have to grind or
cut.
4. Crush boxes can have a 4” wide plate that both body bolts can go through. This plate is not to
extend more than 2” on either side of the body bolts. If you elect to use separate plates for the body
bolts in the crush box, they cannot be bigger than 4”x4” and cannot overlap.
5. All factory frame holes must be left open.
6. Pre-ran cars only will be allowed two (2) 6 inch long Band-Aids. One per frame only. (2 total)
Cannot be thicker than factory frame material. No excessive welding. There must be visible sign of
damage. Superintendent has the last and final say.
7. Any other reinforcing of frame found will result in disqualification.
8. Sub frame cars cannot be tied together. If you want to run a full frame car, buy a full frame car,
don’t build one.
9. No shortening of frames except to mount front bumper.
10. No plating, stuffing, heat treating or foam filling of frames is allowed. Do NOT paint, undercoat,
oil or grease your frames or you will not even be inspected.
11. You may run one (1) wire or chain from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car behind
rear end.
12. You may put a bolt thru frame to hold it together. Only one (1) per wheel opening, must be
loose during inspection, (Pinning of frame)
13. You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
14. Buick, Olds, or Pontiacs MAY NOT fill the large hole in the frame behind the radiator support.
15. If changing front sub, cut 3 inches behind second cross member bold hole. When replacing,
can over lap 11 ½ inches, able to weld both sides, but no adding extra metal. Must be from same make
and model.
16. If re-subbing one side of the frame, you are allowed to cut and fit the new frame flush and weld
one pass all the way around (butt – fit – weld).
17. Suicide Lincolns will be drilled at inspection. A 3/8” hole will be drilled in each front frame rail
to run the scope in for viewing. There has been too much missed by the lack of factory frame holes.
The hole will just be big enough to insert the frame scope.
18. Rear frame rails may not be shortened.
19. You may run a chain or cable or #9 wire from rear rail behind the rear humps. 3/8” chain
maximum.
20. You may chain or wire your axle to the frame hump. You may not use strapping of any kind for
this. 3/8” chain maximum.

HUMP PLATES AND LEAF CONVERSIONS – ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

1. Hump plates may be used on any year or model. If your car came out factory leafed, you are
allowed to hump plate it. You must leave the factory leaf package alone. No added clamps, leafs,
taping, welding, flipping, or restacking. Must remain stock. Must be welded on the outside of the rear
humps. Plates can be 3/8” thick max and 22” long. NO EXCEPTIONS. They will be measured. Don’t try
me, because if they are longer than 22” you won’t be allowed to cut. You will load up and go home.
2. Plate must follow the contour of the frame, must be in the center of the rear hump, and cannot
bridge across the hump on top or bottom.
3. 80”s and newer can either hump plate or leaf. NOT BOTH!
4. This is the last year for leaf conversations. Leaf conversions will not be allowed in 2013. It will
be hump plates only.

BUMPERS – ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

1. Any OEM shock canister may be bolted or welded to any car. Amounts of bolts or welds may not
exceed typical stock installation. Homemade bumper brackets are permitted, no gussets or bracing.
Not to extend behind OEM mounting bolt location on frame. May use 2 ½ inch max. Round or square
tubing. No thicker than ¼ inch. No solid stock may be used. Any OEM stock automobile bumper may be
bolted or welded to the shock canister or bumper brackets. You may weld outer chrome or bumper to
inner skin of bumper. You may use two (2) pieces of light chain per shock. Fenders and bumper ends
may be trimmed to allow for wheel clearance. Must have inspection holes to see inside bumper.
2. For you guys that are cutting the frame down to mount your bumper, you are allowed 6” of
mounting bracket or shock tube welded or bolted to the frame, no more on the frame than that.
3. So to make it easy for you, you cannot extend past the rear factory bolt location or no more than
6” back, whichever is the longest. If you don’t have a factory rear bolt, then guess what, its 6”.
4. This rule also applies to putting your tubes inside the frame. You are allowed 6” only inside the
frame regardless if you cut the frame or not.
5. 03’s and newer, when cutting down the frame to mount the bumper, you are allowed 6” of
mounting bracket past the rear of the radiator support to mount the bumper. This is either inside the
frame or on the outside of the frame, not both.
6. May have a ¼” thick X 2” wide strap from bumper to frame or bumper to body, two on front and
two on rear. Closest place on frame to bumper. Only a 2” x 2” area on each end of strap may be
welded to bumper and frame or body.
7. Loaded bumper rule: You can load a factory automotive bumper. A factory chrome skin must be
wrapped around the loaded bumper. This means factory chrome skin must be on the outside and the
bumper must appear to be a factory bumper. You can weld up bumper holes and skin seams. All
added reinforcement must be on the inside of the bumper with the exception of a 1/4 inch thick plate
across the back where it mounts to the car. No jagged edges. No concrete. All materials used to load a
bumper must be on the inside of the bumper. The outside chrome skin must be factory. Cannot be
solid.
8. DEC Bumpers are allowed.
9. When building a bumper, the bumper cannot exceed factory height, width or length by more
than 1”.
10. Remember that only 1 chrome bumper skin can be used and it must appear to be a factory
bumper in looks. Chrome skin MUST remain in factory form.
11. Bumper must look like a factory bumper in appearance. Remember there are no added braces
or gussets when mounting these bumpers, so don’t make them too heavy.
12. There must be one open hole for officials to check for concrete.
13. Bumpers can be loaded with metal only. No solid bumpers and no concrete. NO EXCEPTIONS.


ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION – ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

1. Any engine or transmission may be used in any car, but must be mounted within 5” of the
original motor.
2. Chained, welded, or homemade motor mounts will be permitted, but must meet approval of
officials.
3. Any type of header is allowed, but must be directed away from driver compartment.
4. Transmission oil coolers and engine oil coolers are permitted. Must be secure and contained
and covered inside the car, for the driver’s protection.
5. Skid plates are allowed. Must be separate oil/transmission plates. No full-length skid plates. No
bolting or welding to frame.
6. Distributor protectors are allowed, but must be attached to engine or transmission mounting
bolts. Backside must be no wider than 12”. CAN NOT CONTACT CAGE AT ANY TIME. If you run a
distributor protector do not mount your dash bar closer than 5” from the middle of the dash. It may not
be welded, bolted or connected to the body, hood or frame. Forward supports must be inside
normally positioned headers and not extend past the water pump.
7. Factory aluminum engine cradles in 2003 and newer cars may be changed. Must be same make.
Chevy to Chevy . . . . . ford to ford. No homemade cradles.
8. Can only be welded in by a single pass and only welded where it was cut. No gussets or added
metal.

REAR END – ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

1. Any automobile rear end can be used in any car. Pre-1980 cars this rule does not mean you can
transform a coil spring to leaf spring or vice versa. On models originally equipped with leaf springs,
stock leaf springs and hangers MUST be used. Leaf packs on all cars may have no more than 8 leaves
per pack MUST be OEM stock. Homemade spring perches or homemade trailing arm brackets may be
welded to rear end. Rear end spider gears may be welded solid. You may tilt rear end by shortening
or lengthening rear end control arms.
2. Any drive shaft or U joint may be used. Welding of drive shaft is permitted.
3. No extra metal added. Any bracket that shows reinforcement to the frame will not be allowed.
4. You my tilt the rear end by lengthening or shortening the trailing arms. Trailing arms may be
reinforced.
5. Rear end braces are allowed, but they cannot be used for any other purpose than to strengthen
the rear end. No additional attachments may be used. Officials’ decision is final.
6. You may have five (5) spring clamps per spring. You pick if you want them in front of or behind
axle, or split them between the front and back

TIRES – ALL JUDGES DECISIONS ARE FINAL

1. Only sixteen (16) inch or smaller tires and wheels will be allowed. No split rims allowed.
2. Valve stem protectors, liquid in tires permitted or screws in rims to hold tires in place permitted.
3. Wheel weights must be removed
4. Double stuffed tires are permitted.
These entry fees are for the regular shows. The special shows will be posted separate.
Same rules apply to all shows.

2012 ENTRY FEES: DRIVER $30.00
PASSENGER $25.00
PIT PASSES $15.00
GRAND STAND $ 8.00 (ALL seats – ALL ages)

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wham
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 Re: Knox Co Fair 7/28 Bicknell, IN
« Reply #2 on Jun 21, 2012, 9:56am »

We will have vendors... Will get a list up soon
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 Re: Knox Co Fair 7/28 Bicknell, IN
« Reply #3 on Jun 25, 2012, 12:40pm »

any guaranteed money for the lawn mowers if 5 or more show up?
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 Re: Knox Co Fair 7/28 Bicknell, IN
« Reply #4 on Jun 27, 2012, 4:25pm »

I will have to ask the fair board... Atleast $150 though
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 Re: Knox Co Fair 7/28 Bicknell, IN
« Reply #5 on Jun 28, 2012, 5:22am »

Not much talk on here
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To be the best u must take out the best! Team bad company
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 Re: Knox Co Fair 7/28 Bicknell, IN
« Reply #6 on Jun 28, 2012, 2:32pm »

I agree.... Hopefully everyone is busy building... To all the hard drivers I just wanna let you know we are putting together some nice mad dog award packages
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 Re: Knox Co Fair 7/28 Bicknell, IN
« Reply #7 on Jul 13, 2012, 9:31am »


Jun 27, 2012, 4:25pm, wham wrote:
I will have to ask the fair board... Atleast $150 though


thanks,if there are less than 5 will you still run mowers?its about a 2 hour drive for us.
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 Re: Knox Co Fair 7/28 Bicknell, IN
« Reply #8 on Jul 15, 2012, 3:49pm »

TTT
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 Re: Knox Co Fair 7/28 Bicknell, IN
« Reply #9 on Jul 17, 2012, 6:45pm »

we will run with less than 5 but not sure how much we will pay, but i do believe there are some others bring mowers
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goffinet420
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 Re: Knox Co Fair 7/28 Bicknell, IN
« Reply #10 on Jul 25, 2012, 7:58pm »

derbytees will be at this show! ;D come out and get your favorite shirt, hoodie , hat, koozie, womens thong or boy cut shorts, stickers or what ever else your heart desires!
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 Re: Knox Co Fair 7/28 Bicknell, IN
« Reply #11 on Jul 26, 2012, 1:34pm »

We will be there saturday night filming this show! We will have our other dvds available as well as taking preorders of this show. See everyone saturday night.
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 Re: Knox Co Fair 7/28 Bicknell, IN
« Reply #12 on Jul 27, 2012, 11:53am »

Chambliss Welding will be there vending
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BADCOMPANY 719
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 Re: Knox Co Fair 7/28 Bicknell, IN
« Reply #13 on Jul 30, 2012, 5:42am »

Great show had a blast. Cory and his crew put on the best knox co show ive ever ran hope u guys stay there and get 3 shows next yr.
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 Re: Knox Co Fair 7/28 Bicknell, IN
« Reply #14 on Aug 1, 2012, 12:15am »

had a good time, prolly be back next year
congrats to Josh,Reynolds,Blace and Dusty

Maybe next year i won't bust 4 tires and a bellhousing in one night! lol

Thanx to those who bought tie rods off me
later
Dixon
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